How you feel vs what people think…

When it comes to the clothing we choose to wear what is more important to you – how you feel in them or the impact they have on how others think about you? Try not to think about it – what is your first response?

New York Times

Unquestionably I value how it makes me feel more so than the impact it might have on others. In fact it’s trying to align “how you feel” with “how you look” that is my goal every time I work with a client though it’s easier said than done.  For the difference between the two and how we try to bring them together have a read of this previous article.

Introducing “Enclothed Cognition”

This concept comes to us from a recent article in the New York Times – give it a read and let me know how you feel it mixes with the “how you feel” vs “how you look” discussion.  Turns out things are more intertwined than I had originally thought.

As always I look forward to hearing from you…

What is Wednesday #19

What is Wednesday.

WIW #19

This weekly Wednesday post is aimed at answering some of the more basic and critical aspects of tailoring and the terminology we use to describe them. It stems from realizing that I’m constantly throwing out different terms with my clients and quite often they’re unsure as to what I exactly mean.  The goal of this section then is to alleviate this terminology gap and provide you with some know-how to talk tailoring with a little more ease.

What is…meant by contrast button and buttonhole thread?

Before I begin though – happy new year!  I trust the holiday season treated you well and you’re ready to go for the upcoming year.  Although the break was fantastic I must say it’s nice to be back – let’s get to it.

Contrast thread – whether to create the buttonhole or the thread used to attach the button itself – is simply a thread done in a different color than the suit cloth itself.  The image below is a great example of both options.

WIW #19 II

At the very top is an example of a contrast buttonhole done in pink thread; you then see the same pink thread used to attach the buttons themselves.  This is obviously a pretty intense contrast with the blue cloth – do keep in mind that the level of contrast can be as bold or as minimal as one likes.  In fact with this type of blue cloth you’ll often see a white or soft navy as the contrast thread – both being distinctly more subtle than the pink yet still providing a hint of detail that many guys find appealing.

Keep in mind that you don’t need to do both; or either for that matter.  It must be noted that doing the buttonhole is a pretty aggressive play – you have to feel comfortable with your suit always playing a more fashion forward roll if you choose this path.  If you’re entering the world of law or banking I would advise against it until you’re well up the food chain; if ever at all.  As for the button thread – this is a much more subtle approach.  The impact is only seen upon closer inspection and provides the wearer with much of the joy as opposed to screaming it out to the rest of the world with the buttonhole.  More importantly though it’s easily changed in five minutes if you grow weary of it – something which is not possible for the buttonhole!

As for my opinion – on a personal level I never choose the contrast buttonhole as it’s too drastic for me.  My subtle detail is brown buttons on my suits (I only wear brown shoes) thus I keep the thread matching the cloth as it always contrasts the button anyways.  To each their own – the question is what is yours?

As always please don’t hesitate to get in touch if you have any questions or comments. Better yet book a free appointment and we can banter in person and see if we might be a good fit to work together.

Take care – Michael

info@martinfishertailors.com

 

Friday Style Debate: Is the tuck already dead?

Time to Debate!

FSD boots tucked in look

Friday Style Debate: Is the tuck already dead?

I was struck earlier today as I passed two separate guys downtown who were both rocking the pants tucked into the boots look – I say “struck” because to my eye the look has all but disappeared this winter.  Last year the look was everywhere – both on the runway, with celebrities (think Kanye West) as well as with the average fellow on the street.  Not the case this year – to the point that its demise is as quick as we’ve seen a trend go in awhile.  Perhaps if we could all pull the look off as well as the chap on the left it would’ve stuck around.

As such I ask the question – is the tuck already dead?  And if so is it being replaced by the cleaner look of slim pants being rolled to expose a more sleek style boot?  Let the debate begin…

What is Wednesday #18.

What is Wedsnesday.

WIW #18 III

This weekly Wednesday post is aimed at answering some of the more basic and critical aspects of tailoring and the terminology we use to describe them. It stems from realizing that I’m constantly throwing out different terms with my clients and quite often they’re unsure as to what I exactly mean.  The goal of this section then is to alleviate this terminology gap and provide you with some know-how to talk tailoring with a little more ease.

What is…the right amount of shirt cuff to show?

At a minimum you need to show a quarter inch – no questions asked.  If you want to play down the middle then a half inch is the way to go; for those wanting to push the boundary slightly you can show three quarters to a full inch – beyond that lies the danger of being a bit peacock’ish which I don’t recommend.

Why is it so important to show cuff in the first place?  It’s all about proportion and balance.  By having the shirt cuff visible at the wrist it softens the overall look and ties in with what is happening in the neck area.  Failing to do so means there is too much suit cloth which begins to overpower the overall look.

WIW #18 II

These two fellows are about as perfect as it gets – half inch on the left and a full inch on the right.  Both of these images give you a real sense of the balancing effect the pop of shirt color has at the wrist.

As always please don’t hesitate to get in touch if you have any questions or comments. Better yet book a free appointment and we can banter in person and see if we might be a good fit to work together.

Take care – Michael

info@martinfishertailors.com

What is Wednesday #17.

What is Wednesday.

WIW #17

This weekly Wednesday post is aimed at answering some of the more basic and critical aspects of tailoring and the terminology we use to describe them. It stems from realizing that I’m constantly throwing out different terms with my clients and quite often they’re unsure as to what I exactly mean.  The goal of this section then is to alleviate this terminology gap and provide you with some know-how to talk tailoring with a little more ease.

What is…meant by having kissing buttons?

When we say the buttons are “kissing” it simply means they are touching each other.  This can occur in two ways; in the top image below you see the overlapping technique.  This creates different angles to which the buttons lie which to some is visually more interesting.  The second option can be seen in the bottom image; in this case the buttons don’t overlap but instead they are simply abutting one another.

WIW #17 II

This weeks discussion is of course a natural follow up to the relevance of the surgeon’s cuff that was discussed.  In terms of a tie in; both of these methods are possible options when using a surgeon’s cuff or when choosing a cuff that has decorative buttonholes that actually don’t function.  And lastly why would you choose one option over the other?  No reason other than aesthetics – one will simply look better to your eye and that is the one you should go with.

As always please don’t hesitate to get in touch if you have any questions or comments. Better yet book a free appointment and we can banter in person and see if we might be a good fit to work together.

Take care – Michael

info@martinfishertailors.com

Paris Field Notes – 5 Sartorial Thoughts.

Paris 1

I’ve recently returned from Paris and the latest experience simply solidified my vote for the title of best dressed city in the world.  There is really nothing quite like sitting on a terrasse with a cafe au lait or a glass of wine and witnessing the near constant flow of well dressed people meander by as they conduct their daily activities.  It doesn’t matter if it’s 9 am on a Sunday as people wander to the market or it’s 9 pm on Friday night as people are relaxing with dinner – style simply plays a day-to-day role in people’s lives in a way we’re not used to.  With that in mind here are my sartorial thoughts on the Paris fashion scene.

PS – that cheese plate above only cost 15 Euro’s…it’s about $50 worth of cheese in the store let alone at a bistro! Anyways – back to the field notes…

Paris Field Notes – 5 Sartorial Thoughts.

1. So Many Looks.

By far this was the most refreshing aspect of Paris as there didn’t seem to be one dominant look or set of trends ruling the landscape.  Furthermore there didn’t seem to be a generation that had the lead in terms of being the most fashionable either as everyone seems to bring a little ‘je ne sais quoi’ to the table – be it the elderly, middle aged, twenty-somethings or even kids…heck especially the kids.  This is a big contrast to the Vancouver scene; as a relative fashion outsider I think we very much get pulled into the trend game which leads to a very narrow range of looks on hand at any given time.  The result is level of sameness that is frankly boring and is perhaps part of the reason why we don’t seem to care in the same way.  Just a theory on the state of malaise that afflicts the Vancouver scene; it can’t only be due to the rain as Paris seems to get its fair share as well.

Untitled design (3)

2. They own the High-Low.

I’ve spoken about the high-low many times; for those of you who the term is new it is essentially when you pair elements of casual wear with more formal pieces. The most common way of doing so is via sneakers – and man do the Parisians love their sneakers.  It makes total sense though as it’s such a walking city.  The average Parisian either walks or does a combination of taking the metro and then walking.  Either way you spend a lot of time on your feet and the result is sneakers are favored over more formal footwear in terms of the street scene.  This blend of formal and casual is then extended into every realm – the cafe, the restaurant, the gallery, the classroom – and as such the visual interest in how people mix and match is greatly increased.

Paris III

3.  The lighter scarf.

This was a massive breakthrough for me as up until this trip I was only focused on thicker scarves.  This made sense when I lived in Toronto and it was minus 25 outside.  It doesn’t however in the more mild climate of Vancouver and it is for that reason that I never brought my scarf out last year.  Enter the lighter scarf – cut a little longer and wider it allows you to wrap it in many different ways.  It’s thin enough to double or triple wrap when you need warmth; or you loosely tie it in a visually interesting way when it is slightly milder.  The result is a way more versatile scarf that can be used in a range of conditions.  As for the Parisians; everyone is wearing them.  Plain, textured, colorful, patterned – everything is fair game.

20151207_121015

As a side note – Vancouver unquestionably struggles with options for men’s scarves.  I’m in the process of trying to fix that problem so if you’re interested do stay tuned in.

4.  Overcoats are everywhere.

This was my topic in the latest Friday Style Debate but it needs repeating.  Not only are they everywhere in Paris but they are everywhere with reason.  That reason being they are incredibly versatile; no coat I know is as successfully worn in as many scenario’s as the overcoat – from being paired with formal clothing to dressed casual to fully casual to being even blended with sportswear.  The more casual the usage it simply becomes like the sneaker in the high-low; only instead of reducing the formality of the outfit it is increasing it in exactly the same way.  In this way it becomes the opposite and the look is known as the low-high.

Paris II

5.  They think about it a little more.

We hear this about Europeans in general but the Parisians really do take it up a notch.  The act of dressing seems to play a role in the average person’s life in a way that it simply does not in North America.  The key here is that it has nothing to do with being fancy or on trend – what I’m talking about is an innate style.  It’s in the way they wear a suit all the way down to how they dress to go play footy in the park with mates; at every level there is a touch more care and thoughtfulness regardless of how they feel about fashion.  The end result being your average Parisian Joe looks as good as our most fashionable and stylish.

Why this is the case I have no idea but it’s a very interesting question to ponder.  How is it that people who are obviously not “fashion” people end up having a look of their own – achieving that critical ‘je ne sais quoi’ we always talk about?  Is it somehow related to buying quality or quantity – a potential positive spin-off of living in smaller physical spaces on average?   Perhaps it’s because they live outside in the public sphere in a way we do not (another spin-off of smaller living spaces); the result being everyday you’re forced to walk by people-watchers on the terrasse and everyday life suddenly turns into a quasi fashion show regardless of whether you’re picking your kid up from school or grabbing some groceries?  All kidding aside somehow the average person seems to look very well put together- impressive indeed and why the allure of Paris will never go away for many of us.

As always please don’t hesitate to get in touch if you have any comments – especially you social geographers out there who might be able to give us some answers!  Better yet book a free appointment and we can banter in person and see if we might be a good fit to work together.

Take care – Michael

info@martinfishertailors.com

Friday Style Debate: Is this the most versatile of coats?

Time to Debate!

FSD - top coats

Friday Style Debate: Is this the most versatile of coats?

For those paying attention we missed two debates while I was away in Paris splitting time on holiday as well as conducting some business.  What quickly became very apparent on the streets of Paris was the prevalence of the top coat on both men and women.  Unstructured, structured, fitted, over-sized, in lighter shades or dark – all of the above were on display.

On the men’s side what was most noticeable was the varied way they were worn; from the traditional manner over a suit, to a dressed down aesthetic with casual clothing and sneakers all the way to pairing them with ‘athleisure’ gear like jogger pants and trainers.  At every level the influence on the over-all look was the same – it added an extra hint of flair that further elevated the guys look.  Which brought me to the conclusion that by far the top coat is the most versatile coat there is.  What other coat can be as comfortable in such a wide variety of styles?

So – what do you think?  Is it the most versatile coat out there or have I overlooked another option?  Let the debate begin…

What is Wednesday #16.

What is Wednesday.

WIW #16 - surgeon's cuff

This weekly Wednesday post is aimed at answering some of the more basic and critical aspects of tailoring and the terminology we use to describe them. It stems from realizing that I’m constantly throwing out different terms with my clients and quite often they’re unsure as to what I exactly mean.  The goal of this section then is to alleviate this terminology gap and provide you with some know-how to talk tailoring with a little more ease.

What is…a surgeon’s cuff?

A surgeon’s cuff – or working cuffs – refer to the functioning buttonholes that are found at the cuff of the jackets sleeve.  The fact that they’re functioning gives the wearer the ability to roll the cuff in the event they choose to do so.  The name comes from the 19th century when surgeons would roll their cuffs back when operating on patients.  This allowed them to keep their coats on which was important as men of their stature were always expected to be formal in the public sphere.

WIW #16 - surgeon's cuff II

As for today – it must be stated that nobody should be rolling their sleeves up as if you’re hot then simply take the jacket off.  If you want to show that your jacket has working cuffs then simply unbutton one or two of the buttons to subtly make the point as seen in the image above.

One more note – going back a decade or so the practice of the surgeon’s cuff was maintained as a way to show your suit was of a higher quality.  At the time this was due to the fact that it required an extra sewing operation hence an additional cost – one that would only be incurred on a higher end suit.  Lately however everyone is doing surgeon’s cuff precisely to appear as a higher quality jacket while cutting corners in the more important areas.  The moral of the story – they can be a nice detail but don’t let their presence fool you.

As always please don’t hesitate to get in touch if you have any questions or comments. Better yet book a free appointment and we can banter in person and see if we might be a good fit to work together.

Take care – Michael

info@martinfishertailors.com

What is Wednesday #15.

What is Wednesday.

WIW#15 - high armhole

This weekly Wednesday post is aimed at answering some of the more basic and critical aspects of tailoring and the terminology we use to describe them. It stems from realizing that I’m constantly throwing out different terms with my clients and quite often they’re unsure as to what I exactly mean.  The goal of this section then is to alleviate this terminology gap and provide you with some know-how to talk tailoring with a little more ease.

What is…the reason for having high armholes?

The issue of high armholes is perhaps one of the more miss-understood elements of jackets; let it be said once and for all that higher is simply better.  The reasons are the following; it allows you to have a far greater ease of movement, it’s more comfortable and it looks way better as it allows for a trimmer fit in the chest.    The example below shows this quite beautifully:

WIW#15 - high armhole (1)

Ease Of Movement.

Notice how the fellow in the image above has his arm extended to shoulder level.  As you can see there is essentially no lifting, twisting or movement at all in the jacket as a result of this movement.  This is because the sleeve is able to act independently from the body of the jacket due to the higher cut armhole.  Eventually the jacket will start to rise but only as the arm gets above the shoulder level; in the event the armhole was cut lower then the body would be pulled upwards as the arm hits the chest level.

Comfort.

This is primarily due to the fact that the jacket isn’t moving around with each arm or body movement.  This point shouldn’t be underestimated – constant movement of the jacket means constant fidgeting to get things back in place which never looks or feels good.

Cleaner Appearance.

The higher armhole enables the chest to be kept trimmer and cut closer to the body; this takes away a lot of the puddling that we often see right below the armhole which adds unnecessary visual bulk.  Another factor is a longer silhouette from the bottom of the armhole to the bottom of the jacket; this elongates the body and is a big aspect of making a body look longer and leaner which is fairly often a goal of most clients.

As always please don’t hesitate to get in touch if you have any questions or comments. Better yet book a free appointment and we can banter in person and see if we might be a good fit to work together.

Take care – Michael

info@martinfishertailors.com