The aim: to make clothes that fit perfectly and are as comfortable as possible.
The guiding principle is that clothes should take the shape of your body. I assess your figuration and establish the cut and construction method for clothes that will be as comfortable and as natural in appearance as possible. The pattern and cloth are individually cut for your silhouette while the construction method combines soft materials with subtle structuring to enable clothes that mould and conform to your body.
The end result: clothes that are cut slightly closer to the body to increase comfort and mobility while having a natural lived-in aesthetic.
For comfort and style the armholes are cut high to increase mobility as well as to create a long and lean silhouette. The jackets are constructed in two ways – both of which are relatively soft in terms of the firmness of their chest and shoulder treatment.
The first is my version of a traditional business cut. It combines minimal padding and a gently sloping shoulder line with a soft, natural falling sleeve. The lightweight floating canvas combines two layers of horse hair with a single layer of felt to provide just enough shape in the chest while maintaining a natural and clean aesthetic.
The second version is a soft, unstructured jacket influenced by the world’s warmer climates. Gone is the padding over the shoulder, the sleeve-head and the lining while the floating canvas is reduced to a single layer. The result is a cool and lightweight jacket that still maintains a clean chest and overall aesthetic.
Like the jacket the focus is comfort. With pants though it has less to do with construction and everything to do with the cut. It must conform to your shape while still providing the silhouette you’re looking for. The length and height of the crotch, where they sit on the waist, the amount of ease in the seat, and the width at the upper thigh are critical to this equation. Get it wrong and you either can’t move or you’re swimming in excess cloth.
In terms of construction the pants are always half-lined and with the choice of a rubber inserted or a lightly interfaced waistband. We pride ourselves in cutting a perfect trouser thus belt loops are optional.
Like the jacket the shirts armholes are cut high to increase mobility and to create a longer and leaner silhouette. As much excess cloth as possible is removed from the mid and lower sections of the shirt to reduce the overall bulk. This creates a synergy between the shirt and jacket as they need to operate as a single unit to ensure comfort.
You have a choice of 15 different collar styles – be it to match the shape of your face or to meet your specific style aesthetic. You also have a choice of 10 cuff arrangements – from single barrel to traditional French to the more uncommon single French.
You can have a front placket or a clean front finish; you can have a clean back or a pleat, you can have darts in the back to further slim the torso; you can have it loose over the hips to wear it untucked or tighter in the event you want to reduce all excess bulk.
Overall there is a fair amount to think about and digest. If you have any questions please don’t hesitate to get in touch: