Tag Archives: “What is Wednesday”

What is Wednesday #9

What is Wednesday.

WIW #9

This weekly Wednesday post is aimed at answering some of the more basic and critical aspects of tailoring and the terminology we use to describe them. It stems from realizing that I’m constantly throwing out different terms with my clients and quite often they’re unsure as to what I exactly mean.  The goal of this section then is to alleviate this terminology gap and provide you with some know-how to talk tailoring with a little more ease.

What is…meant by a jacket’s expression and structure?

Suit nerds like me love to banter about this subject; at its most basic level though it refers to what happens on the inside the jacket.  This is because the level of structure on the inside of a jacket determines the expression of the jacket on the outside.  With structure it comes down to firmness – the more structure the more firm and armour-like the jacket becomes. Conversely the less structure the softer and more sweater-like the jacket becomes.  Inside a jacket you will find different layers of canvas, horsehair, felt, shoulder padding, sleeve-heads and wadding – it’s how these materials are combined that determines the level of firmness and overall structure of the jacket.

WIW #9 II

In the images above on the left we have a great view into how this influences the shoulder area. This is an example of relatively light padding – the goal in this case being to achieve a smooth ark over the ditch that naturally occurs above the collarbone while not adding any excess bulk. The result is an expression in the shoulders that creates a feeling or mood that is generally light and natural – much like we see in the image on the right.

Untitled design (2)

Another reason I’ve chosen this image is because it shows the connection between the expression of a jacket in relation to how we cut the shoulders.  In this case shoulders have been pushed slightly wider than normal as the blue lines indicate. The red indicates where the shoulder seam could have been placed for a completely different look and mood for the jacket. By cutting wider and combining it with a light structure the expression of the jacket on the whole is one of softness.

Make sense?  Again this is touch technical but critical in helping you wade through the noise that accompanies is suit terminology.  As always please don’t hesitate to get in touch if you have any questions. Better yet book a free appointment and we can banter in person and see if we might be a good fit to work together.

Take care – Michael

info@martinfishertailors.com

What is Wednesday #8

What is Wednesday.

WIW #8

This weekly Wednesday post is aimed at answering some of the more basic and critical aspects of tailoring and the terminology we use to describe them. It stems from realizing that I’m constantly throwing out different terms with my clients and quite often they’re unsure as to what I exactly mean.  The goal of this section then is to alleviate this terminology gap and provide you with some know-how to talk tailoring with a little more ease.

What is…the difference between a natural and unstructured shoulder?

This is a nice follow-up to last week’s post on the natural shoulder line.  As a quick reminder a natural shoulder line is one that is cut to mirror the wearers actual shoulders as much as possible.

With that in mind an unstructured shoulder always has a natural shoulder line.  It is devoid of all internal padding and structure hence the natural shape of the wearers shoulders and body in general is expressed through the jacket.

A natural shoulder is slightly different though as it will always have a certain amount of internal padding and structure.  It is a minimal amount but it is done to create subtle shape over the chest and collarbone area without altering the natural appearance of the shoulders.

Still with me?  Put simply both have a natural shoulder line but one has padding and structure (natural) while the other has none (unstructured).  As you can see in the images below the visual difference is often be difficult to see.  A give away is that the unstructured sleeve often falls downwards right at the shoulder seam – this being due to the fact that in unstructured jackets a sleeve head is usually avoided.  The main difference though is how the jacket “feels” on the body – you simply have to try them on the get a sense.

WIW #8 II

As always I’d love to hear your opinions on this or any sartorial subject for that matter.  Better yet book a free appointment and we can banter in person and see if we might be a good fit to work together.  You can also come by and try on an unstructured jacket if you want!

Take care – Michael

info@martinfishertailors.com

What is Wednesday #7

What is Wednesday.

What is Wednesday #7

This weekly Wednesday post is aimed at answering some of the more basic and critical aspects of tailoring and the terminology we use to describe them. It stems from realizing that I’m constantly throwing out different terms with my clients and quite often they’re unsure as to what I exactly mean.  The goal of this section then is to alleviate this terminology gap and provide you with some know-how to talk tailoring with a little more ease.

What is…meant when a jacket is described as having a natural shoulder line?

A natural shoulder line refers to a jacket that is cut to mirror the wearers actual shoulders as much as possible.  Most jackets have a certain amount of canvas and padding in them – this is done to make setting the sleeve easier and to create a more rounded shape over the collarbone and upper chest area.   When this padding and structure is kept to an absolute minimum it allows the wearer’s actual shoulders to be seen in their natural form.  The opposite of this is to build up the shoulder and chest area with a lot of padding – the resulting effect being normal sized guys looking like NFL linebackers!

WIW 7

The images above clearly show this difference.  On the left is a fellow with very sloped shoulders – the jacket is very lightly padded hence we see his shoulders exactly as they are.  On the right though it’s less clear.  To my eye this fellow has slightly sloping shoulders; however the jacket is heavily padded thus making his shoulders appear more neutral in angle then they actually are.   As such we would call this a structured shoulder as opposed to a natural shoulder.

As always I’d love to hear your opinions on this or any sartorial subject for that matter.  Better yet book a free appointment and we can banter in person and see if we might be a good fit to work together.

Take care – Michael

info@martinfishertailors.com

What is Wednesday #6

What is Wednesday.

sloped vs square shoulders 4a

This weekly Wednesday post is aimed at answering some of the more basic and critical aspects of tailoring and the terminology we use to describe them. It stems from realizing that I’m constantly throwing out different terms with my clients and quite often they’re unsure as to what I exactly mean.  The goal of this section then is to alleviate this terminology gap and provide you with some know-how to talk tailoring with a little more ease.

What is…the difference between square and sloped shoulders?

This question is all about shoulder angle and the two fellows in the image below couldn’t be more different.  To clarify right away – on the left we have an example of square shoulders while on the right we have sloped shoulders.

sloped vs square shoulders 4d

Another way describing this is to say the shoulders are high (square) or low (sloped).  As the red lines in the image show the height of the shoulder point creates either an upside down “T” or an upside down “Y” – which is which I don’t think I need to say.  For a touch more clarification – a regular or standard shoulders height would be right in the middle between the two.

As for the effects on the garment – someone with square shoulders will find a roll of excess cloth occurring below the collar at the back neck.  Those with sloped shoulders will collapse the the bottom of the armhole as they will physically be putting downward pressure on the hole itself.  This will also lead to stress lines going from the neck area on a diagonal towards the bottom of the armhole area.  As a result what we do is move the armhole either higher or lower in relation neck point to correct this problem.

Like last week this one might have been a touch more technical in terms of the information provided – if that’s the case please don’t hesitate to get in touch if you have any questions. Better yet book a free appointment and we can banter in person and see if we might be a good fit to work together.

Take care – Michael

info@martinfishertailors.com

 

What is Wednesday #5

What is Wednesday.

What is #5

This weekly Wednesday post is aimed at answering some of the more basic and critical aspects of tailoring and the terminology we use to describe them. It stems from realizing that I’m constantly throwing out different terms with my clients and quite often they’re unsure as to what I exactly mean.  The goal of this section then is to alleviate this terminology gap and provide you with some know-how to talk tailoring with a little more ease.

What is…the roll line?

The roll line is the point on the jacket’s front that the lapel folds back on itself.  It extends from the collar at the neck down towards the button stance whereby the lapel ends (or begins). The roll over the chest should be soft, smooth and never buckle at any point – this type of strain indicates the jacket doesn’t have enough length to fall gracefully over the chest.

Untitled design

In the image above you will notice the little stitches in perfect rows on the lapel itself – this is called padstitching (they will have their own “What is” in a few weeks).  They have two functions – the first being to attach the canvas (the beige material which will also have it’s own “What is” soon!) to the front of the jacket. The second function relates to the roll line specifically – the tension of the stitches are increased as they get closer to the roll line as this assists in creating a natural roll back on itself.

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The image above shows how the stitches can actually shape the roll.  With proper tailoring it is definitely not a case of simply folding the lapel back and pressing down with an iron.  Rather it’s a combination of padstitiching and a very soft, subtle iron to create a very soft and lively roll.

Last but not least is what is done at the roll line itself.

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The actual roll line in the image above occurs to the immediate left of the white piece of twill tape that runs diagonally through the image.  It runs from the upper middle of the image (the neckline) to the lower left (to the button stance).  This half inch wide piece of cotton tape stabilizes the roll line and keeps it from stretching and loosing shape over time.

This one might have been a touch more technical than the last few weeks – if that’s the case please don’t hesitate to get in touch if you have any questions. Better yet book a free appointment and we can banter in person and see if we might be a good fit to work together.

Take care – Michael

info@martinfishertailors.com

 

What is Wednesday #4…

What is Wednesday.

What is Wednesday #4

This weekly Wednesday post is aimed at answering some of the more basic and critical aspects of tailoring and the terminology we use to describe them. It stems from realizing that I’m constantly throwing out different terms with my clients and quite often they’re unsure as to what I exactly mean.  The goal of this section then is to alleviate this terminology gap and provide you with some know-how to talk tailoring with a little more ease.

What is…the button stance (and where should it be positioned)?

The button stance simply refers to the button which you fasten to close the jacket – the top button on a two-button jacket (right) and the second button of a three-button jacket (left).  For the record – only one button should ever be fastened.  The single button acts like a fulcrum enabling the jacket to pivot freely on that point; when two buttons are fastened it acts like a tube and the fluidity of the jacket is lost.

what is wednesday II

In terms of positioning – the button stance is generally found at the base of the rib cage roughly three inches above the belly button.  Typically this will be the thinnest point of a man’s torso and hence on the jacket as well; it allows for a gentle sweep inwards from shoulders and then outwards back over the hips.

One other aspect to keep in mind – the angle of the lapels.  On the three-button jacket you will notice the angle is higher with the lapel softly breaking a few inches above the button stance. The two-button on the other hand has a lower angle with a sharper break occurring right on the button stance itself.   Both are stylistically beautiful and correct – it simply comes down to which aesthetic you prefer.

As always I’d love to hear your opinions on this or any sartorial subject for that matter.  Better yet book a free appointment and we can banter in person and see if we might be a good fit to work together.

Take care – Michael

info@martinfishertailors.com

What is Wednesday #3…

What is Wednesday.

gorge line II

This weekly Wednesday post is aimed at answering some of the more basic and critical aspects of tailoring and the terminology we use to describe them. It stems from realizing that I’m constantly throwing out different terms with my clients and quite often they’re unsure as to what I exactly mean.  The goal of this section then is to alleviate this terminology gap and provide you with some know-how to talk tailoring with a little more ease.

What is…the gorge line (and why is it so important)?

The gorge line is where collar and lapel join together.  The height and angle of this line is crucial as it helps define the look and feel of the jacket.

gorge III

In the above images on the left you will see a much lower gorge line than on the close-up to the right.  In general – the higher and more in line with the shoulder the angle is the more contemporary the jacket will feel.  A lower angle such as on the left is a bit more traditional though in this case it is done on a contemporary jacket with great effect.

Another factor to be aware of is the effect the height of the gorge has on visual elongation.  By that we mean the longer the distance between the gorge line and the button stance the longer the torso will appear.  If you’re a taller person this is positive as it syncs the jacket with the rest of your proportions.  For those of you on the shorter side it visually creates length which is generally viewed as a positive.

As always I’d love to hear your opinions on this or any sartorial subject for that matter.  Better yet book a free appointment and we can banter in person and see if we might be a good fit to work together.

Take care – Michael

info@martinfishertailors.com

 

What is Wednesday #2…

What is Wednesday.

single vs double breasted

This weekly Wednesday post is aimed at answering some of the more basic and critical aspects of tailoring and the terminology we use to describe them. It stems from realizing that I’m constantly throwing out different terms with my clients and quite often they’re unsure as to what I exactly mean.  The goal of this section then is to alleviate this terminology gap and provide you with some know-how to talk tailoring with a little more ease.

What is…the difference between a single and double-breasted jacket?

A bit of a holiday break since the last What is Wednesday post on collars but today’s is the natural follow-up.  Of the images below we have the double-breasted jacket on the left with a single-breasted version being shown on the right.

single vs double II

There are two main differences; the first and most prominent being the overlap of the left over right.  On the single-breasted version there is a very narrow overlap of only about 1-1.5 inches. On the double-breasted version there is a wide overlap as the left side comes across the center front of the jacket by 3-5 inches thus making a total overlap of 6-10 inches.

The second difference is the buttons.  On a single-breasted jacket there is one column of buttons at the center of the jacket; with a double-breasted version there are two columns that sit offset to the right and left.  In this case the column on the right are used to do the jacket up while the column on the left are decorative and there to balance the overall appearance.

In terms of use – single-breasted jackets are by far the more common.  That said the double-breasted variety are having a bit of a renaissance but in general they are viewed as more formal.  Part of this is due to the fact that they look sloppy when left undone due to the large overlap in the front whereas a single can easily be left open to bring a more casual feel.  Lastly – and a direct tie-in to the last post – is the type of collars found on these jackets.  A single breasted jacket can have a notch, peak or shawl collar whereas a double-breasted will generally have a peak lapel.  That said I’ve always wanted to do a double-breasted tuxedo with a shawl collar as I think it would be quite striking – any takers out there?

As always I’d love to hear your opinions on this or any sartorial subject for that matter.  Better yet book a free appointment and we can banter in person and see if we might be a good fit to work together.

Take care – Michael

info@martinfishertailors.com

 

Introducing…”What is Wednesday”

Notch, Peak & Shawl Collar II

This will be a weekly Wednesday post aimed at answering some of the more basic and critical aspects of tailoring and the terminology we use to describe them. It stems from realizing that I’m constantly throwing out different terms with my clients and quite often they’re unsure as to what I exactly mean.  The goal of this section then is to alleviate this terminology gap and provide you with some know-how to talk tailoring with a little more ease.

What is…a notch, peak and shawl collar?

Before we get into the different types of collars I’ll address what we mean when we refer to the collar itself.  The collar is the part that wraps around your neck and joins with the lapels (the front of the jacket which folds back on itself).  It is how this is shaped that determines the type of collar.  With that in mind here are the three most prominent collars:

Notch, Peak & Shawl Collar

Notch

I’ll start in the lower right hand corner with the most commonly found collar style – the notch.  It literally looks like V or L shaped notch has been cut out creating a step effect between the lapel and the collar.  This style is always appropriate and is found on traditional business suits as well as on more casual jackets.  The one place you will never find it though is on a double breasted coat – come back next Wednesday to find out more about that subject.

Peak

Directly above the notch is the second most popular collar style – the peak.  The peak is exactly that – in this case the lapel holds its angle until its crests and falls back towards the collar where they are joined with little slip stitches.  This style is traditionally higher on the formality scale than the notch but more and more it’s being used in daily wear so no need to shy away if you appreciate its aesthetic.  The one place you will always find a peak lapel/collar style – double breasted jackets.

Shawl

Lastly on the left is the most formal collar style – the shawl.  This style is almost exclusively found on tuxedo jackets and more often than not is done in a different fabric than the rest of the jacket itself.  The fact that it is a continuous collar that wraps around the neck and flows downwards to the first button makes it very elegant in appearance.

As always I’d love to hear your opinions on this or any sartorial subject for that matter.  Better yet book a free appointment and we can banter in person and see if we might be a good fit to work together.

Take care – Michael

info@martinfishertailors.com