What is Wednesday #3…

What is Wednesday.

gorge line II

This weekly Wednesday post is aimed at answering some of the more basic and critical aspects of tailoring and the terminology we use to describe them. It stems from realizing that I’m constantly throwing out different terms with my clients and quite often they’re unsure as to what I exactly mean.  The goal of this section then is to alleviate this terminology gap and provide you with some know-how to talk tailoring with a little more ease.

What is…the gorge line (and why is it so important)?

The gorge line is where collar and lapel join together.  The height and angle of this line is crucial as it helps define the look and feel of the jacket.

gorge III

In the above images on the left you will see a much lower gorge line than on the close-up to the right.  In general – the higher and more in line with the shoulder the angle is the more contemporary the jacket will feel.  A lower angle such as on the left is a bit more traditional though in this case it is done on a contemporary jacket with great effect.

Another factor to be aware of is the effect the height of the gorge has on visual elongation.  By that we mean the longer the distance between the gorge line and the button stance the longer the torso will appear.  If you’re a taller person this is positive as it syncs the jacket with the rest of your proportions.  For those of you on the shorter side it visually creates length which is generally viewed as a positive.

As always I’d love to hear your opinions on this or any sartorial subject for that matter.  Better yet book a free appointment and we can banter in person and see if we might be a good fit to work together.

Take care – Michael



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