Category Archives: Tailoring

What Is Wednesday #23

What is Wednesday.

WIW#23 - pockets II

This weekly What is Wednesday post is aimed at answering some of the more basic and critical aspects of tailoring and the terminology we use to describe them. It stems from realizing that I’m constantly throwing out different terms with my clients and quite often they’re unsure as to what I exactly mean. The goal of this section then is to alleviate this terminology gap and provide you with some know-how to talk tailoring with a little more ease.

What is…a patch, besom & flap pocket?

A pretty simple topic this week – specifically we’re talking about the styles of front pockets found on suit jackets, sportcoats or blazers. Generally there are three kinds – patch, besom and flap.

WIW#23 - pockets

On the outsides we have the patch and flap styles – both are easy to remember as they are simply physical descriptions of the pocket. As for the besom style – if anyone can let me know where the name comes from I’d be much obliged as I can’t seem to find an answer.

The big question though – which style to choose and when? The easy answer is whatever you aesthetically prefer – today the rules are interpreted quite loosely and you’ll see all three styles with relative frequency. That said the most formal of the bunch is the besom style – it is typically what you would find on a tuxedo and black tie jackets; however as you can see in the image above it also just as useful with a standard suit. On the other end of the spectrum is the patch pocket – definitely the most casual of the three. Traditionally found on sportcoats and blazers; they are presently gaining a lot of momentum and finding their way into more standard suits. They are in fact a great way to relax a suit and give it a touch more playfulness. As for the flap style – it sits right in the middle and will forever be the most popular choice for its versatility which enables it to be equally appropriate in both formal and more casual environments.

As always I’d love to hear your opinions on this or any sartorial subject for that matter. Better yet book a free appointment and we can banter in person and see if we might be a good fit to work together.

Take care – Michael

info@martinfishertailors.com

What is Wednesday #22

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What is Wednesday.

WIW#22 II

What is…meant by open or closed quarters?

This is a natural follow up to last weeks discussion about the nuances of the jackets skirt – here is the link if you didn’t get a chance to give it a read. While the skirt deals with the amount of flare that occurs in the bottom third of the jacket; open or closed quarters specifically deals with whats happening at the center front of the jacket from the fastening button down to the bottom. In image below on the left you have an example of closed quarters, while on the right we see open quarters.

WIW #22 alter

What is the difference? Quite simply it refers to the amount of opening that occurs below the fastening button. With the closed quarters on the left there is little to no opening at all. Comparatively with open quarters we get a big opening that essentially mimics what happens from the button up to the collar.

Which one is better? Neither – it’s all about aethetics and whatever looks visually right to you is the option you should choose. The reality though is that we see a lot more open quarters jackets than closed. In general it’s a softer look as there is simply less cloth visually in the mid section – this allows for more contrast as there is often a glimpse of the shirt, tie or sweater in this case.

Take care – Michael

info@martinfishertailors.com

Friday Style Debate – Is the double vest an emerging trend?

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Time to Debate!

FSD Pesko

Friday Style Debate: Is the double vest an emerging trend?

For those of you who were unaware the peacock festival that is otherwise known as the menswear trade-show Pitti Uomo finished up last week. As per normal it had the standard does of styles that were totally on point along with an equal mixture of interesting possibilities vying to become trends and those that we hope just go away (more on that next week).

Which brings us back to this debate – does the double vest layering we see in the image above have a chance at emerging as new trend? In this case we’re looking at Bloomingdale’s Men’s Fashion Director Josh Peskowitz – is the layering creating something that is visually interesting and grabbing you? Perhaps it’s a case where it only works with this specific outfit? I say that because you’ll notice the two complimentary shades of grey in his trousers. Of course it could also just be a case of a fashion guy trying to set himself apart at a trade-show filled with other fashion-heads – the question is what do you think?

Let’s debate….

What is Wednesday #21

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What is Wednesday.

WIW#21

What is…the skirt of a jacket?

The skirt simply refers to the bottom third of the jacket – roughly from the level of the second button down to the hem. You will always find in the skirt the lower front pockets as well as the back vents.

Now that we know what the skirt is – let’s shift to what role it plays with the look and feel of a jacket. As we learned in What is Wednesday #4 the button stance represents the thinnest part of the jacket; from this point down the jacket’s width is actually increasing in circumference as it transitions into the skirt and sweeps over the hips. The look and feel of a jacket is really influenced by the amount of flare that is added – or lack there of – as it flows over the hips and the seat.

WIW#21 II

The difference is clearly shown in the two images above. The fellow on the left has much more fullness – or width in the circumference – which allows the skirt to softly flow over his hips and seat. The fellow on the right has little to no ease at all as you can see the jacket is hugging his hips. If you could see the side view it would be hugging his seat in the same way. To hammer this home look at each of their right thighs – on the left there is a good two fingers of space whereas on the right there is none.

Which is correct? Both are – it all depends on the look and feel you want the jacket to give and more importantly is impacted by the proportions of your body. The fellow on the left is much broader in the shoulders and chest; as such he has chosen more fullness in the skirt because it balances out the top and bottom of the jacket. If his jacket hugged his hips it would have the effect of making his chest and shoulders actually appear disproportionate to the rest of his body. The fellow on the right meanwhile doesn’t have to worry about this as he is rail thin from the top all the way to the bottom. In this case he has chosen to keep the line of the silhouette quite straight; he equally could push the skirt outwards a bit in an attempt to create a more dramatic sweeping silhouette. At the end of the day it all comes down to a personal choice.

Take care – Michael

info@martinfishertailors.com

What is Wednesday #20

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What is Wednesday.

What is…a vent? (And how many should I have?)

A vent is a vertical slit on the back of jacket that rises upwards from the bottom hem – its purpose is to allow for a greater ease of movement when wearing the jacket. There are two options to choose from – the single vent or double vent – as can be seen in the image below:

WIW#20 II

On the left is British PM David Cameron in a double vented jacket; while on the right is his Deputy PM Nick Clegg in a single vented jacket. Both options are equally correct and look good when they lie flat and at a 90 degree angle as seen here.

Which brings up the big question – which option is preferable? My first response to clients is always whatever looks aesthetically cleaner to their eye. In most cases they don’t have an opinion thus response number two – do you put your hands in your pockets? If the answer is yes then you should always choose the double vent. The reason is the double vent creates a flap that covers your seat when your hands enter the pockets of your pants just like can be seen here:

vents

If you don’t put your hands in your pockets then my advice is to still stick with the double vent – reason being that two vents simply allow for more ease of movement than one thus allowing us to cut the garment a touch closer in other areas. I would also add that aesthetically it looks more balanced – but that is just my personal opinion of course!

As always please don’t hesitate to get in touch if you have any questions or comments. Better yet book a free appointment and we can banter in person and see if we might be a good fit to work together.

Take care – Michael

info@martinfishertailors.com

7 Sartorial Keys For 2016

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First off welcome to the new year – I trust everyone had a great holiday season. If last week was more about finding our feet again; this week is about finding some rhythm and getting back in the groove. As such here are seven keys to get you in the right sartorial frame of mind for the upcoming year.

7 Sartorial Keys For 2016

1. Flannel

We’ve entered the heart of our winter and for the next two-and-a-bit months our sense of style has to be blended with practicality like at no other time of the year. Cue the flannel – it’s deep, rich texture makes it one of the most versatile out there as it transitions effortlessly from formal and casual environments as one can see from the two images below.

Flannel

It also pairs beautifully with other cloths – from a formal smooth worsted wool, to brushed cotton all the way to a casual dark denim. Whether we’re talking an individual pant or a jacket or a suit than can be worn together or as a separate – nothing will get you through the winter like flannel.

2. The Wool Overcoat

Like I said above, practicality reigns supreme at this time of year and nothing maintains that balance quite like the wool overcoat. From a style perspective there are very few pieces that are as versatile as the wool overcoat; equally effective complimenting a suit or formal wear as it is elevating a more casual weekend look. And if the weather is bad enough that it’s performance that you’re looking for we’ve still got you covered. Enter the Loro Piana Storm System – where arguably the worlds best mill takes their 100% pure wool overcoat cloth and attaches a double barrier membrane that is resistant to water, windproof and allows the skin to breathe.

overcoat II

Most importantly the cloth maintains its distinctive softness while achieving a level of practicality that is the perfect synthesis of style and function. If you’re interested I have swatches for you to get a sense of the cloth – the cost is $995 and the turn around is roughly three weeks right now thus you still have time!

3. Unstructured Jackets

This trend is not going away in 2016 – and for good reason as the comfort and softness of an unstructured jacket is undeniable. The idea behind them is to make a jacket that fits closer to a sweater or shirt in terms of how the feel on the body.

Untitled design (4)

What is up for debate though is for who and when are they most appropriate. I’ll start by saying that well built guys with a natural roundedness in the shoulders are always able to wear unstructured – be it in a formal suit jacket or something more casual. The body fills the jacket out and it presents a very clean and shapely silhouette. Things get more complicated for guys with less muscle; their boniness makes wearing an unstructured jacket formally very difficult as it doesn’t present as clean an appearance. In this case it is perfect for the summer months where the lightness and breathability are more important and a less crisp silhouette is expected. What is on for everyone is the thicker cloths of winter – especially the flannel we touched upon above. The heavier, bulkier cloths give an added level of structure that create a clean, crisp silhouette regardless of your shape. They’re perfect for layering over sweaters and the fact they’re half lined means you’ll never get too hot. Commit to getting on this for 2016 as it’s the new normal as opposed to a trend that will soon dissipate.

4. Loosen the Legs a Touch

For those of you who regularly read the journal I spoke about this topic earlier this year; I refer to it as relaxed trim and it seems to be gaining some momentum as we move into 2016. Specifically in this case I’m talking about pants – in the spring/summer fashion shows that just passed we saw a lot of designers promoting a much looser fit in the pant leg. Fashion always tries to push things too far thus I recommend bringing in the concept by loosening certain areas strategically. A softer look in the seat, mid section and thigh area is what you want to be thinking about while still having a gentle taper to the bottom – in the end a simple mimicking of the bodies natural shape. Here are two perfect examples:

relaxed trim II

In this case we’re still looking at 14-16″ openings at the bottom; we’ll see how the 16-18″ openings that we saw on the runway catch on and assess again as we head into summer. My thought is it won’t catch on and relaxed trim will hold court for the next few seasons.

5. Tone On Tone

Simplicity always works. Tonal took off in 2015 and as it makes so much sense it’s going to stick around for hopefully many years to come. Pairing different shades of the same color is a very simple way to keep things unified though visually interesting. A way to add another dimension to this; play with different textures. And if you want to take it one step further don’t be afraid to add in some pattern as well. Play with the possibilities – keep in mind that is can never really go that wrong as you’re always in the same color family.

tonal II

6. The Cuban-Inspired Convertible Shirt Collar

This look started to gain a bit of traction last summer within specific groups in the tailoring community. As tailoring and traditional menswear in general has gained a lot of momentum over the last few years these fringe communities are now being tapped by designers as the next influencers. With that in mind I’m predicting the 1950’s Cubano look with the convertible collar to take off. The key is to avoid the traditional boxy look and instead stay with a clean trim silhouette.

Cuban done right

7. Getting Fit in 2016?

With the turn of the new year most of us inevitably have some new fitness goals in place. As we approach the two week mark hopefully you’re keeping your focus and not long from now you’ll really be able to start to see the difference. With you working so hard to get fit – so should your clothes. Too often I see guys who put in all the hard work only to wear clothes that visually adds back the 10 pounds you worked hard to shed. Don’t let that be the case – wardrobe re-shaping and alterations services are available; let us take your existing clothes and work them back into shape just like you’ve done. Don’t hesitate to give email or give me a ring to discuss the possibilities.

Take care – Michael

info@martinfishertailors.com

Friday Style Debate: If you had to choose one style of suede shoe…

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Time to Debate!

FSD - Suede I

Friday Style Debate: If you had to choose one style of suede shoe…

For those of you who have spent time in France and Italy you’ll be familiar with their on-going love affair with the brown suede shoes in all styles – and rightly so I must say. Their versatility let’s them walk a delicate line between formal and casual; the richness and texture of their surface adding a level of depth that awakens even the most basic of outfits. Pretty close to perfect I’d say.

Which leads to the first FSD question of 2016 – if you had to choose only one style of suede shoe to wear for the rest of your life what would it be? The rugged yet noble chukka? The dependable and classic lace-up? Perhaps it’s the flash of the double monkstrap? Or lastly could it be the elongating elegance of the loafer?

Either way it’s not an easy choice – let the debate begin…

What is Wednesday #19

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What is Wednesday.

WIW #19

This weekly Wednesday post is aimed at answering some of the more basic and critical aspects of tailoring and the terminology we use to describe them. It stems from realizing that I’m constantly throwing out different terms with my clients and quite often they’re unsure as to what I exactly mean. The goal of this section then is to alleviate this terminology gap and provide you with some know-how to talk tailoring with a little more ease.

What is…meant by contrast button and buttonhole thread?

Before I begin though – happy new year! I trust the holiday season treated you well and you’re ready to go for the upcoming year. Although the break was fantastic I must say it’s nice to be back – let’s get to it.

Contrast thread – whether to create the buttonhole or the thread used to attach the button itself – is simply a thread done in a different color than the suit cloth itself. The image below is a great example of both options.

WIW #19 II

At the very top is an example of a contrast buttonhole done in pink thread; you then see the same pink thread used to attach the buttons themselves. This is obviously a pretty intense contrast with the blue cloth – do keep in mind that the level of contrast can be as bold or as minimal as one likes. In fact with this type of blue cloth you’ll often see a white or soft navy as the contrast thread – both being distinctly more subtle than the pink yet still providing a hint of detail that many guys find appealing.

Keep in mind that you don’t need to do both; or either for that matter. It must be noted that doing the buttonhole is a pretty aggressive play – you have to feel comfortable with your suit always playing a more fashion forward roll if you choose this path. If you’re entering the world of law or banking I would advise against it until you’re well up the food chain; if ever at all. As for the button thread – this is a much more subtle approach. The impact is only seen upon closer inspection and provides the wearer with much of the joy as opposed to screaming it out to the rest of the world with the buttonhole. More importantly though it’s easily changed in five minutes if you grow weary of it – something which is not possible for the buttonhole!

As for my opinion – on a personal level I never choose the contrast buttonhole as it’s too drastic for me. My subtle detail is brown buttons on my suits (I only wear brown shoes) thus I keep the thread matching the cloth as it always contrasts the button anyways. To each their own – the question is what is yours?

Take care – Michael

info@martinfishertailors.com

Friday Style Debate: Is the tuck already dead?

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Time to Debate!

Friday Style Debate: Is the tuck already dead?

I was struck earlier today as I passed two separate guys downtown who were both rocking the pants tucked into the boots look – I say “struck” because to my eye the look has all but disappeared this winter. Last year the look was everywhere – both on the runway, with celebrities (think Kanye West) as well as with the average fellow on the street. Not the case this year – to the point that its demise is as quick as we’ve seen a trend go in awhile. Perhaps if we could all pull the look off as well as the chap on the left it would’ve stuck around.

As such I ask the question – is the tuck already dead? And if so is it being replaced by the cleaner look of slim pants being rolled to expose a more sleek style boot? Let the debate begin…

What is Wednesday #18.

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What is Wedsnesday.

What is…the right amount of shirt cuff to show?

At a minimum you need to show a quarter inch – no questions asked. If you want to play down the middle then a half inch is the way to go; for those wanting to push the boundary slightly you can show three quarters to a full inch – beyond that lies the danger of being a bit peacock’ish which I don’t recommend.

Why is it so important to show cuff in the first place? It’s all about proportion and balance. By having the shirt cuff visible at the wrist it softens the overall look and ties in with what is happening in the neck area. Failing to do so means there is too much suit cloth which begins to overpower the overall look.

These two fellows are about as perfect as it gets – half inch on the left and a full inch on the right. Both of these images give you a real sense of the balancing effect the pop of shirt color has at the wrist.

Take care – Michael

info@martinfishertailors.com